Ray's in the City

DOWNTOWN. Venerable Ray's on the River has established an outpost in the city, and it's a beautiful place, complete with an aquarium, an onyx bar, tiled walls and ambient lighting. Seafood is delivered several times daily, and everything is impeccably fresh. Terrific oysters from the raw bar are a briny treat, and the sushi bar offers favorite rolls fashioned to your specs. Much of the fish is simply grilled, but there's also grouper with a horseradish crust, ginger-glazed yellow fin tuna, lump crab cakes, and a wonderful broiled seafood platter. Pork, chicken and steak satisfy landlubbers who can't give up their comfort zones.